Frame off-what do I leave,supports, boxing Q's?

[R&B51]

Working front to back frame off and will likely do TCI coil over and 4 link. Will be ~330 HP LS/LQ. What all comes off, then what needs to be added?
TCI pkg front, rear, tranny and motor mounts about $5K, decent rear end with disc another $2K?, front sway$?, does 4 link need rear sway? Added frame support under cab(see below).
Wow, by the time all done, is it better to just bail and go for one of those full frames? Maybe I'm just whining after removing more than half of these crazy rivets!?
So far, all I've left on is brake line tabs by hole through rail and front cross member. I'm back to the round bar across under front of bed looks like park break bar. Since will be 4 wheel disc, assume I cut it out and remove brackets on rail?
What else stays as I cut rear suspension off?
Took seat base out, will need to cut and weld new floor in- any special tasks to make sure front cab mounts are solid? Are repro panels good enough?
Will also weld in new side kick panels and inner/outer back cab corners.
Doing all this, do I need to weld some cross supports across under cab since took out seat base-feels very floppy now.
Ideas or diagrams of what you've done?
Sorry, lots of questions, and will probably be more.
Want it to be super solid, only about 3-4" drop, powerful and drive more like a modern truck.
Previous member said Art Morrison frame was good option if I bail out, any other opinions on ready to roll units out there, ballpark cost?

[mr48chev]

Dang bud I got a headache just trying to read.

Basically I would leave all of the original brackets that you need to reassemble the truck with on the frame if the rivets are good and they are tight and the bracket is straight. Personal experience says that good solid factory rivets trump any bolt and lock washer/nut combo that you can come up with and taking the brackets off to slick up the frame behind them isn't all that needed most of the time.

[Advanced Design]

R & B51,

There are a number of threads on here on replacing the floor, kick panels and lower cowl. Look through them for ideas on replacement process and how to brace panels so they don't move out of position. The seat pan serves as a structural member for the floor making it more rigid. You will need to build that rigidity back in for a floor that doesn't oil can. You can post up some pictures of where you are for good suggestions.

Not sure where you are with the frame. Many great trucks have been built using the original frame and riveted in cross members in place.

Yes, the Art Morrison frame is very nice...and very pricey. If you are looking at options for a complete frame No Limit has them and Rob the owner helps a lot on this forum. Other options are TCI, Fatman, Roadster Shop and there are others.

[R&B51]

Thanks men, I'm just very new at this and every bit of advice helps. I'll take it seriously. I'll check with no limit and the others. I had talked with them at Art Morrison but their suspension seem to really drop more than I wanted. Wanting to do this right, I might use some of these more expert suspension builders to get a great base to build the rest of the truck on.
I'll look again to see if I can find those threads on cab floor sheet-metal replacement.

[Iceburgh]

I sure hope you braced the cab before cutting the seat bracket.
If not mount the doors and work on your gaps to make sure it did not move. Then brace the cab for the build and cut them out later

[R&B51]

You sound like you've been through this your self!? No, I didn't know enough to brace anything before I cut the seed support out. The doors did not have really great gaps before I took him off. I was assuming I would have to work on them after I had everything blasted. Not really sure of the sequence on these things. I assumed I would disassemble everything have it blasted and then put it back together and work on bodywork and gaps then- to disassemble it again if needed. I have not cut the floor out yet, as I was trying to decide what is better, to order a reproduction floor and put that back in even though I don't need the dished out area or to just fabricate the floor out of sheet steel. I suspect that I would have to weld some braces underneath the floor but I'm not really sure how to do that. Not sure if they should be welded to the bottom of the floor or just sit underneath it. I was going to look for some threads on this on the advice of another member but I have not had time to do that yet. Before I cut the floor out, what do braces look like? Just sort of an x-frame inside the cab or two? I probably don't really need to cut the whole floor out, it is only rusty on driver and passenger where it meets the firewall and in spots under where the seat frame used to be. Maybe better just to patch those areas and keep this old steel there .

[OrrieG]

x2 on cab bracing, especially since you are cutting out the floor. Rehang the doors and get the gaps right. I would also check the windshield to make sure the A pillars have not moved. Then cross brace it up like this:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=7238329

Look at this thread, it has a number of links to AD reconstruction builds so you know what you are getting into.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=7060603

[R&B51]

Wow, good stuff. It takes a lot of time to develop skills like that. But having such good instruction gives me a place to start to learn. I'll take it slow and try to take advantage of good advice. Thanks for the links to those threads.