6"/8" drop with mostly stock suspension...too low???

[mfm3]

Just changed from a "5/7" drop to 1" lower all around. Thought I would share what I am learning with my fellow static droppers.

Tires: 235/60-15 and 255/70-15
Before: 3" springs/2" spindles and C-notch/5" springs/2" blocks
After: now 1" lower with 4" springs and 3" blocks
Issues with the front:
- down to 1" of ground clearance with stock lower control arms; crossmember has about 1-1/2" of ground clearance
- riding on the snubbers/ride is a little bumpity
- steering arm rubbing on top side of sway bar and starting to leave a slight gouge
- inside edge of rims scrapping on stamped control arms when turning to full lock...annoying!
Issues with the rear:
- 1-1/4" of clearance between top of axle housing and c-notch snubber/not an issue so far; I guess 1" of suspension travel is enough when you don't have any weight in the bed and drive on mostly smooth roads
- 1-1/4" of clearance between top of the center section and bottom side of the bed wood; the axle housing bottoms out on the c-notch snubbers, so the rear end's center section can't damage the wood bed floor, but has left a small mark on the underside of the bed wood
- approx 3" of clearance between bottom of sway bar and the ground, which is a little scary

I'm committed to making the 6"/8" drop work, so I bit the bullet and ordered CPP's tubular control arms for the front. Should add at least 1/2" of ground clearance at the control arms and eliminate the wheel scrapping issue at full lock. I can always increase the height of the front tires from 60 series to 65 and get another 1/2" of clearance. I'll likely add air shocks in the back for times when I need to haul a load. Looking for anyone with experience using CPP's control arms or air shocks in back. Please share your experience and any other wisdom that will let me drive the truck hard without fear of ripping the suspension off. Not wanting to bag it...yet.