Crewcab build

[joe231]

[joe231]

Awesome, can't wait for more!!

[jonzcustomshop]

pm lilred66, he posted a link last week for a company that is doing full door skins.

[jonzcustomshop]

another thing that you could try with the door edge:
break the inner and outer door apart at the edge.
move your inner door (shorten) to where you want it.
leave about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the old door past the inner door edge. trim off the rest.
hammer and dolley your new edge around the inner door
spot weld back together.

there might be issues when you gert to the compound curves, you might need to make little cuts ando them a couple inches at a time.

the other method you could use, is to trim the skin off right on the edge of the inner door.
spot weld the skin to the inner door.
then use round rod to create a new door edge.(this is the same method that you could use to fix a bad door gap tat you can't adjust out.)

[PrerunnerRob]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

another thing that you could try with the door edge:
break the inner and outer door apart at the edge.
move your inner door (shorten) to where you want it.
leave about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the old door past the inner door edge. trim off the rest.
hammer and dolley your new edge around the inner door
spot weld back together.

there might be issues when you gert to the compound curves, you might need to make little cuts ando them a couple inches at a time.

the other method you could use, is to trim the skin off right on the edge of the inner door.
spot weld the skin to the inner door.
then use round rod to create a new door edge.(this is the same method that you could use to fix a bad door gap tat you can't adjust out.)

Im thinking I'm goung to use this door as my ugly template for all the others, so I should be able to deskin it and get measurements to build the rest. All of my other doors are getting de-skinned, the inner door reworked, and then a new skin will be placed on top, hopefully using the portion between the handle indentation and mirror holes(did I mention I'm shaving the handles, I want to suicide aspect to be a surprise). One of my shop mates does high quality sheet metal work for a living, so I'll have hime reskin the door.

That rod idea is killer!

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by PrerunnerRob

Im thinking I'm goung to use this door as my ugly template for all the others, so I should be able to deskin it and get measurements to build the rest. All of my other doors are getting de-skinned, the inner door reworked, and then a new skin will be placed on top, hopefully using the portion between the handle indentation and mirror holes(did I mention I'm shaving the handles, I want to suicide aspect to be a surprise). One of my shop mates does high quality sheet metal work for a living, so I'll have hime reskin the door.

That rod idea is killer!

Slowly but surely...looking good man.

Will you be at the shop later ??

I'll be at my shop from about 12:00 on today. I am throwing the 67 frame back together.

Later !!

[PrerunnerRob]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

Slowly but surely...looking good man.

Will you be at the shop later ??

I'll be at my shop from about 12:00 on today. I am throwing the 67 frame back together.

Later !!

Nope, I'm going to take out the dirt bikes to hollister with my girlfriend...it's been way to long to wait to go ride, so I'm going to be at Hollister all day

[Jonboy]

See if you can dig up some pics of a 57-58 Cadillac Eldo Brougham in the pillar area. They had a bracket that came up from the floor about 10 inches or so and held the striker for the rear doors. It was kind of triangular shaped, and the front of the rear door panel was notched out for it. They had conventional front doors and suicide rear doors. I would try to find a pic, but I'm not so good at finding stuff on the internet. This is a really cool build, though. Keep up the good work.

[jonzcustomshop]

good call on the variencies, through the years, I have noticed different sheet metal from different plants fitting different.
they all had thier own sets of tooling,and though the same they were probably not exact.

the tolerances that the factory used were quite liberal too,when i was measuring for the section on my 60, I noticed that the passenger rocker was welded on a little crooked, twisted up 1/8 of an inch as compared to the driver side. made it a little tough to do the measurements to get it the saame side to side.

another thing that I experienced, we were putting modern door handles on my friends 70 firebird, we did all the measurements off the existing door handles, welded them up and started working on the linkage,it was then that we found out that the passenger doorhandle was 1/4 inch closer to the rear of the car than the driver.
we checked and double checked all the stuff that we welded up, and it was just that the passenger door skin was a little different than the driver...
from GM's standpoint, it wouldn't matter... because you can't look at both sides of the car at once!

So I always keep that stuff in mind when I measure, and measure more like 5x then cut!

[pugs]

another reason i say about getting the front doors and b-pillar done, is that it will help to keep the cab square

[PrerunnerRob]

Originally Posted by pugs

another reason i say about getting the front doors and b-pillar done, is that it will help to keep the cab square

My only fear of doing the front doors first is that I have no control then over the angle of the rear edge of the front door in relation to the angle of the front edge of the rear door. I just don't want to angle the front doors twice if I am not happy with the reveal between the doors. When I get close to being ready to put both cabs together, I'm going to build a sliding rail that is plumb, level and square to allow the cabs to slide together and apart again. It would be awesome if I could have both cabs ready completely, and then just slide them together and get to welding, but I am pretty sure there will be some fitment issues(don't even get me started on the inner roof!), and I would rather have the cabs squared and flush together befor I attempt to re angle the front doors to match the rear.

[pugs]

whats the distance of the door at the top of the window, and is the angle the same front and back at the window frame

[PrerunnerRob]

Originally Posted by pugs

whats the distance of the door at the top of the window, and is the angle the same front and back at the window frame

Not sure on the distance, but in theory it should be the same top and bottom where it comes out of the door. The angle of all the upper portion of the doors will all match the windshield angle(the leading window edge of the front door).

[Frizzle Fry]

Vette pans are even lower profile, but they have the "winglets" that make them hard to put in anything other than a Vette.

[ChiefRocka]

What exactly do you mean by "winglets" ??

[PrerunnerRob]

I looked on ebay, and found out what they are. It's a "batwing" pan, that is super shallow, and spreads out across the underside of the pan
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-L...spagenameZWDVW

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by PrerunnerRob

I looked on ebay, and found out what they are. It's a "batwing" pan, that is super shallow, and spreads out across the underside of the pan
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-L...spagenameZWDVW

My pan looks nothing like that...thats for sure, and it's a dry-sump out of a Z06 Vette....
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[PrerunnerRob]

Want to trade John?

Who makes the headers? That looks awesome!

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

My pan looks nothing like that...thats for sure, and it's a dry-sump out of a Z06 Vette....

Thought that was your Dads? Ya, the dry sump pans are different.

[ElkyRacer]

A f-body pan, or a new pan that they call the LH8 pan will help you in ground clearance area. The LH8 pan is hard to get ahold of from what Ive heard tho. Ive got the truck pan, and a f-body pan, just waiting to see which one Ill need.

Heres all you will need to know, and more about LSx pans.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=817787

[L0WRIDE]

nice work rob

[ClassicAutoResto]

love the rail system Rob! Looking good. Jerry

[PrerunnerRob]

More progress made today, I finally had a chance to spend all day at my shop, and finished my sliding rail table. I placed both cabs on the sliders, evened them out on their mounts, and slid both together. I finished all of my rough cuts, slid them both together again, and found they fit very well.

After tacking the rockers together, I checked all the body lines. Everything is good, just minor shimming needed to get everything to line up.

DOH! I knew everthing was going way too smooth, so I threw my mock door up, and found I blew my measurement by 1/4". Ill be cutting them back apart again, removing that 1/4 inch, and everthing will be set from here on out! Gap is 3/8 now, need to go down to 1/8 between the two doors.

[ChiefRocka]

Nice man, really nice !!

So what did you come up with the filler ??

Still gonna be suicide, right ?

[PrerunnerRob]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

Nice man, really nice !!

So what did you come up with the filler ??

Still gonna be suicide, right ?

I decided to go without a filler, I'm going to lean back the front door angle to match the rear. That way it will flow very nicely etween the two doors, and the rear will definately be suicide.

How's everthing going John?