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Old 10-10-2016, 12:57 AM   #1226
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by kehstr View Post
especially since those high humps go for upwards of $200!! (That is given the right time, place, and color)
Crazy. Thankfully, this isn't a 100-point concours resto big block Cheyenne super. I can deal with the wrong color and welding up the hole to save $189
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Old 10-10-2016, 08:46 AM   #1227
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Nice score on the high hump, I paid around $100.00 for mine and I thought that was pretty good compared to the current going rates I'm seeing, but $11 is crazy
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Old 10-10-2016, 11:01 AM   #1228
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

What a deal on the hump. Even if you don't need it, you could sell it to someone else at a good price and make money...
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Old 10-10-2016, 11:23 AM   #1229
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

That's my kind of score!
I paid like $20 at my local pull a part for one, I thought it was a steal. My hats off to ya.
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Old 10-10-2016, 11:54 AM   #1230
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Very nice find, gringo. Totally jealous!
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Old 10-10-2016, 08:15 PM   #1231
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

I was in Utah @ a VW show a few weeks ago, saw Dave.... The word is there's a c10 build @ kindigit design. . just saying.
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Old 10-10-2016, 08:27 PM   #1232
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

great deal and nice repair work = great value/money saved. I paid like $70 for my high hump and it has a small dent/crease near the bottom to bang out.
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:35 PM   #1233
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by mcbassin View Post
That's my kind of score!
I paid like $20 at my local pull a part for one, I thought it was a steal. My hats off to ya.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orange67 View Post
Very nice find, gringo. Totally jealous!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom View Post
great deal and nice repair work = great value/money saved. I paid like $70 for my high hump and it has a small dent/crease near the bottom to bang out.
Thanks guys, shame I had to burn my good luck on a junky old truck part
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I was in Utah @ a VW show a few weeks ago, saw Dave.... The word is there's a c10 build @ kindigit design. . just saying.
Oooooh... Hopefully it makes it into this season. I'll be honest, I hadn't seen any of their shows/work until that caddy. I'm playing catch-up now. I know not everyone likes them, but they put out some nice cars.

Snapped this pic of the truck tonight after I parked the Blazer. I haven't actually seen it in 3 weeks, since it was under a tarp while I was working rust repair. Forgot how much I like looking at this thing--and how much I'm looking forward to installing the coilovers
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Old 10-13-2016, 08:07 PM   #1234
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

I'm in a similar situation, just curious what swayed you to the drop member instead of the wide ride? I'm torn between the two. Both are great products.
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Old 10-13-2016, 09:02 PM   #1235
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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I'm in a similar situation, just curious what swayed you to the drop member instead of the wide ride? I'm torn between the two. Both are great products.
Well, a few things:

- I was looking for the least "supporting mods", mild DM offered that (toss this out the window now, with the v7, but should still be manageable)
- I had some "in-store credit" with PB
- I have been doing business with Nate and Co a looong time
- A few negative reviews from folks who have installed NL (only of the install itself, performance/ride seems to review well)

Honestly, it's just what I was comfortable with. That, and Dave Porter put up with an inordinate amount of ridiculous technical questions, waffling, and general tomfoolery from me. That alone is worth the sale

I figure you can't go wrong either way, just find what appeals to/makes sense to you
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'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
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Old 10-14-2016, 08:58 AM   #1236
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
Well, a few things:

- I was looking for the least "supporting mods", mild DM offered that (toss this out the window now, with the v7, but should still be manageable)...
Can you elaborate on this part some? What's the differences between the v6 and v7 that should be manageable and what are the supporting mods?
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=372424

The LST Challenge:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post7812257

Korbin's 1st Square: "Sunburn"
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=418618

1985 GMC Sierra: "White Trash", Korbin's 2nd now...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=632305

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Old 10-14-2016, 10:35 AM   #1237
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Can you elaborate on this part some? What's the differences between the v6 and v7 that should be manageable and what are the supporting mods?
V7 moved the rack down, so no frame notches and the motor stays closer to stock position.

Supporting mods include, but are not limited to: inner fenders, hood hinges, trans hump, trans crossmember, exhaust, shifter linkage, electric fans, battery relocation, etc. Lots I'm sure I've forgotten that has to change when moving the engine/trans/suspension dramatically from stock positioning. The mild/lvl 1 version would have been the optimal choice for lessening the burden of these additional requirements. I just can't seem to resist the urge to go lower--I blame this forum
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:44 AM   #1238
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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I just can't seem to resist the urge to go lower--I blame this forum
Exactly! I'll say it for you Chris. This forum ROCKS!

Lol
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Old 10-14-2016, 12:05 PM   #1239
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Old 10-14-2016, 04:46 PM   #1240
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Have you thought much about what you'll do for the bed floor? Raise the entire floor?
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:30 PM   #1241
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Have you thought much about what you'll do for the bed floor? Raise the entire floor?
It's raised 3" already. Remains to be seen if I'll need to use that space
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:37 PM   #1242
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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It's raised 3" already. Remains to be seen if I'll need to use that space
I'm thinking of becoming a fortune teller, because I feel that you WILL need to use that space!
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Old 10-16-2016, 04:53 PM   #1243
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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I'm thinking of becoming a fortune teller, because I feel that you WILL need to use that space!
Hmmmm... Now you've got me thinking

Did a little lowering today, of the seat. Took 2" out of the mounts and it sits sooooo much better now. It's like I'm actually sitting 'in' the truck, instead of 'on' it.
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
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Old 10-16-2016, 06:53 PM   #1244
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Hmmmm... Now you've got me thinking

Did a little lowering today, of the seat. Took 2" out of the mounts and it sits sooooo much better now. It's like I'm actually sitting 'in' the truck, instead of 'on' it.
Ahhh..... 88-98 bench. I feel they allow more legroom as well vs 67-72's.
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Old 10-16-2016, 08:03 PM   #1245
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Ahhh..... 88-98 bench. I feel they allow more legroom as well vs 67-72's.
Yes, much thinner back and none of the bounciness of the stocker. One of the better cheap/easy mods I've done to this truck
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
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Old 10-16-2016, 08:49 PM   #1246
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
Hmmmm... Now you've got me thinking

Did a little lowering today, of the seat. Took 2" out of the mounts and it sits sooooo much better now. It's like I'm actually sitting 'in' the truck, instead of 'on' it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI View Post
Ahhh..... 88-98 bench. I feel they allow more legroom as well vs 67-72's.
Totally agree on the 2'' drop.
Did you angle it any more than the stock specs or just straight down two in็hes?
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Old 10-16-2016, 08:51 PM   #1247
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

And I thick a tilt wheel in mandatory with the seat bracket modification
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Old 10-16-2016, 11:52 PM   #1248
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Totally agree on the 2'' drop.
Did you angle it any more than the stock specs or just straight down two in็hes?
Just a straight 2", but I bolted to the stock front holes in the pan, which have a little (1"?) rise, so there's some tilt (gangsta lean)
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And I thick a tilt wheel in mandatory with the seat bracket modification
Funny, the Blazer has factory tilt, and I end up settting it comfortably at straight...
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy
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Old 10-17-2016, 10:34 AM   #1249
aggie91
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
V7 moved the rack down, so no frame notches and the motor stays closer to stock position.

Supporting mods include, but are not limited to: inner fenders, hood hinges, trans hump, trans crossmember, exhaust, shifter linkage, electric fans, battery relocation, etc. Lots I'm sure I've forgotten that has to change when moving the engine/trans/suspension dramatically from stock positioning. The mild/lvl 1 version would have been the optimal choice for lessening the burden of these additional requirements. I just can't seem to resist the urge to go lower--I blame this forum
Thanks for the insight. I did not realize the v7 lowered the rack and did away with the frame notches.
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1965 Chevy Stepside(Grandpa's Old Blue) and (July 2015 Shop Build!)(2020, the Saga Continues)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=372424

The LST Challenge:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post7812257

Korbin's 1st Square: "Sunburn"
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=418618

1985 GMC Sierra: "White Trash", Korbin's 2nd now...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=632305

Henry - 1984 Chevrolet, Owen's 1st Square
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:42 PM   #1250
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by aggie91 View Post
Thanks for the insight. I did not realize the v7 lowered the rack and did away with the frame notches.
I did not either, at first. Helped sway my decision to go with the v7 over the mild. Doesn't seem well-publicized--I think it would be a big selling point for many, as it seems folks are turned off by the welding required with rack notches. I found the info on a random post on instagram and confirmed with Dave via email
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy
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