Some details of blocking the Slick Sand. I block the primer down until I hit bare metal. This way the primer is as thin as possible and doesn't have to thick of a build to become unstable if the panel has any flexing- preventing cracks. You can see the different coats of primer being blocked off around the high spots.
On body lines and details, I sand the flat section first, cutting into the body line with the edge of the block until I hit bare metal. This cuts the body line straight and keeps the primer build up in the line to a minimum.
With the upper edge cut and leveled, it gets taped up so blocking the bottom half doesn't damage the upper part that's already straight.
Both sides blocked, keeping the body lines straight and well defined. This will really make the paint stand out in these areas after cutting and buffing.
Same treatment on the front edge of the raised stamping.
Minor low spots are touched up with filler and blocked down. If the metalwork and skimcoat/blocking was done correctly, there are very few areas to rework after priming and blocking with Slick Sand.
The flat areas of the fenders were blocked first, then a flexible sanding pad was used to sand the wheel opening lip, making sure to keep an even radius around the lip.
