dropmember + GenIII engine?

[shifty]

i guess this is more directed at Nathan more than anything.

but before saying this, i want to give a big THANKS to everyone here for chipping in info. i was soooo close to buying CPP's entire tubular setup until i started reading through here and findin the post where 'royo' couldn't even fit ball joints into them. you guys sharing experiences has been a huge help in my research.

with that out of the way, i have a question:

now, i spent $250 on my GenIII engine mounts from ECE. however, i am quickly realizing that my current stock crossmember is really going to give me nothing but grief when i go to bag my truck. i read CT or CCT a couple of months ago about the porterbuilt dropmember, but only then did i realize it was a bolt-in affair.

i just swapped a 2001 or 2002 LS1 out of a wrecked WS6 into my truck. i am curious whether anyone knows of a person with a GenIII engine like this LS1 paired up with a dropmember from PB?
if so, what are they doing for mounts?

any and all info is appreciated. i would really, really love to start hashing out my suspension, which is next in line on the truck.

[Shane]

How/why is the current cross member going to give you grief when you go to bags?

[shifty]

i'm blowing it out of proportion . i just won't be able to go "as low" if i keep the current uppers and lowers, along with the stock xmember. since i'm getting new arms and swapping to bags, and i really want to move the LS1 farther back, i was hoping to acquire another excuse to use the P dropmember instead of the stock xmember

[Shane]

If you don't plan on "laying frame" (as the young folks say ) then you don't have anything to worry about with the stock cross member. lots of members here are running stock X members with aftermarket A arms and they can plant the bottom of the X member flat dab on the asphalt ...

But the comment about using the PB crossmember does NOT fall on deaf ears ... i would absolutely KILL for one too.

[PBFAB.COM]

I just happened to have a LS equipped Dropmember here at the shop... this one is a C4 Dropmember, but the motor is located in the same position on the regular Dropmember. The Dropmember comes with the motor mounts.

[Hart_Rod]

Not to steer you one direction or another, but here's picture of my 69 Suburban with bags/2 1/2 dropped spindles and ART Tubular A-arms in the front, (bags/ bolt in c-notch and 1 1/2 lowering blocks in the back). I can put the front crossmemember on the ground with 24" tire. With a taller tire, I hit the inner fenders prior to it sitting on the ground. Either way, unless you plan on putting a serious step/bridge notch in the back, you won't be able to get the rear any where as low as the front.

[shifty]

I was interested in laying frame, and also interested in doing a serious step notch in the back but i see what you guys are saying. either way - good info, for future plans.

[PBFAB.COM]

The main advantage of the Dropmember is not the ability to lay frame (that's just a bonus if the end-user wants to). The greatest advantage of the Dropmember is the crossmember to ground clearance gained. In Hart Rod's first pic the factory crossmember is on the ground, and there is still a few inches between the framerails and the pavement. A Dropmember would locate the lower control arms higher than the frame-rails below the cab. If Rob's burb had a Dropmember in it he would have three or more inches of ground clearance and he could drive at that height!

[shifty]

Admittedly, that would be nice except when you hit a bump and your wheel smacks your brake MC I'd love it though!

Stupid question, because I could probably look this up in the CT or CCT I originaly saw it in, but ... are you req'd to use rack and pinion with the Dropmember? Or can you use stock steering setup?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

The main advantage of the Dropmember is not the ability to lay frame (that's just a bonus if the end-user wants to). The greatest advantage of the Dropmember is the crossmember to ground clearance gained. In Hart Rod's first pic the factory crossmember is on the ground, and there is still a few inches between the framerails and the pavement. A Dropmember would locate the lower control arms higher than the frame-rails below the cab. If Rob's burb had a Dropmember in it he would have three or more inches of ground clearance and he could drive at that height!

STOP tempting me PB! I tell you what, if I ever build a truck that low, it will have a PB dropmember.

Shifty, I don't think you can use stock steering with his crossmember. Here's a link to an install he did a while back:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201898

[BACKYARD88]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

The main advantage of the Dropmember is not the ability to lay frame (that's just a bonus if the end-user wants to). A Dropmember would locate the lower control arms higher than the frame-rails below the cab. If Rob's burb had a Dropmember in it he would have three or more inches of ground clearance and he could drive at that height!

All that with no frame Z. You can't go wrong Shifty

[Kontrol Phreaks]

I know you're on here talking about the drop members but I see there was some talk about notching the rear as well. As some of you know, or might not know, we offer a step notch kit that is designed for the 60-87 frame rails. Here's a picture of the notch that we make and it's designed to lay out on 20" wheels. If you're running a larger profile 20" tire, or want to lay on 22's, then we can stretch the notch to accomidate those changes.




Clint Petree
KP Components Inc.
866-KP-LINKS

[Shane]

hey Kontrol Phreaks ... do you guys have a website?

[PBFAB.COM]

www.kpcomponents.com

[shifty]

oh - and just to point it out so i can be a butthole

that's a truck engine (4.8 or 5.3) with an LS1 instake. block in the front is marked as such, not 5.7... i didn't notice it until i saw the water pump exit.

this is all good info for the future (year or so from now) when i want to do all this, if i get the courage and approval to do so. only positive advancements can occur between now and then.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by shifty

oh - and just to point it out so i can be a butthole

that's a truck engine (4.8 or 5.3) with an LS1 instake. block in the front is marked as such, not 5.7... i didn't notice it until i saw the water pump exit.

this is all good info for the future (year or so from now) when i want to do all this, if i get the courage and approval to do so. only positive advancements can occur between now and then.

Yep! The cast block should've given it away! Which reminds me... it is necessary to run the F-body oil pan and thus oil pick-up tube with the Dropmember. The truck oil pan will not give the necessary clearance.

[72CSTC5]

Porter, you can swap over an LS1 intake to the truck motors? I just picked one up today which is why I am asking. I am not doing the motor yet but when I do I will get one of your dropmembers to go with it.

[randomhero472]

on a side note.. anyone wanna tell me what kind of wood kp is using in the truck bed?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by 72CSTC5

Porter, you can swap over an LS1 intake to the truck motors? I just picked one up today which is why I am asking. I am not doing the motor yet but when I do I will get one of your dropmembers to go with it.

The F-body intake will bolt up no problemo. It looks a little cooler... you can even throw on some Corvette coil-pack covers... with a little trimming.

[Shane]

Originally Posted by randomhero472

on a side note.. anyone wanna tell me what kind of wood kp is using in the truck bed?

looks like unstained oak ... could be ash ...