LS1 swap. What oil pan did you use?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by mahanian

Sorry Rob, I didn't mean that as a personal attack. I used the "roll eyes" emoticon guy as a "hmmm" or "deep in thought" cause that's what it always looked like to me. I've never used that little guy before and that is what I always thought it was.

No worries, man. It's late, I'm tired and in the process of moving and I'm getting very little sleep. I didn't mean to snap at you. If you want the pan, shoot me an offer. I'm just trying to recoup some of my $$$ in this whole oil pan "adventure". Take care and talk to you later.

R

[mahanian]

Any idea what mounts the camaro pan will work with? I'm going to pull the drivetrain out of the GTO this weekend.

Good luck with the move!

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by mahanian

Any idea what mounts the camaro pan will work with? I'm going to pull the drivetrain out of the GTO this weekend.

Good luck with the move!

All the mount that move the motor back, ie the ones that use the plates....Street and peformanc, CPP, and I'm sure others. Thanks.

[brossow]

I know this is an old thread, but I think my question is relevant to the discussion.

What's this piece indicated by the arrows in the attached pic, and does it need to be swapped if changing from an F-body pan to a CTS-V pan, or does it stay with the pan it came with? The CTS-V pan is on the left, indicated by the red arrow. Obviously the F-body pan has the green arrow.

Thanks,
Brent

[mahanian]

That is the oil cooler bypass, You want the camaro one with the boss on it so you can drill and tap it for your oil pressure gauge. See attachment

[brossow]

Originally Posted by mahanian

That is the oil cooler bypass, You want the camaro one with the boss on it so you can drill and tap it for your oil pressure gauge. See attachment

Thanks for the info! What did these and later cars do for the oil pressure sender, since obviously they didn't use this method?

[mahanian]

They have an oil pressure switch at the back of the manifold. It won't work with mechanical oil pressure gauges

[brossow]

Dumb question: is it tapped to 1/8" NPT or 1/4" NPT? The attachment above says both. I'm assuming it's supposed to be 1/4" NPT but I hate to make assumptions.

[mahanian]

Most aftermarket oil pressure gauges use a 1/8" NPT fitting but come with an adapter for 1/4". I would recommend 1/8" NPT so you maintain good wall thickness.

[brossow]

Ah, I get it. Thanks!

[1971gmcshortbed]

Hart_Rod, I just went through this thread and this is what makes 6772 site priceless. Thank you for all the research. Would you happen to have the part numbers for CTSV pan and pickup? Stupid question but that is classic CTSV application right? For the LS6 application? Not the LSA new supercharged correct?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by 1971gmcshortbed

Hart_Rod, I just went through this thread and this is what makes 6772 site priceless. Thank you for all the research. Would you happen to have the part numbers for CTSV pan and pickup? Stupid question but that is classic CTSV application right? For the LS6 application? Not the LSA new supercharged correct?

Sorry, I don't have the part numbers. It is for a classic CTSV, 08. You should be able to go to a dealership and ask for pan and pickup tube. If I find the part number I'll let you know.

R/

EDIT: I found these numbers in this thread, http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...s-needed.html:

Oil pan 12577901
windage tray 12558268
pickup tube 12577906

[mike nutt]

i haven't used one yet but here's a pan kit from gm performance http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-19212593/ . i did how ever use the h3 pan in a '71 truck with the factory stands , fit like a glove

[Hart_Rod]

Here's another good thread with all the pans and part numbers:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...x-oil-pans.htm

Cadillac CTSv :
Capacity: 5.5 qts
Oil pan: 12577901
Oil pump pickup: 12577906
Windage tray: 12558268 (same as Truck "C/K)
Dipstick tube: ?
Dipstick: ?
O-ring for Oil pump pickup:?
Oil pan baffle: 12577904

l

[gus]

Originally Posted by Robert Paul Thomas

Me again, I made the mistake of buying LS mounts from CPP, they do not fit for our application, so don't buy them.
Rob

Per Nick at Doug Throley Headers, the CPP tube perches and GENIII adapt. plates from CPP were used to design 324Y-C headers for our 67-72 trucks !

he recomend CPP mounts as well ECE's and others

It all depends were you mount the tube perches.

you can get same issues with any mounts !

[gus]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Mahanian,

Honestly, the rolled eyes weren't necessary. Like I said I paid $290 for everything and I'm sure it's going to cost at least $40 to ship. So even if I sold it for $260, I'm still out $70, about 4 hrs work, and a couple trips to the parts store. Plus, I saved you a lot of time trying to figure this out yourself. Sorry for the rant, but I don't appreciate you implying I'm trying to rip some one off. Have a good night.

Rob

LMAO

[gus]

Originally Posted by mahanian

Sorry Rob, I didn't mean that as a personal attack. I used the "roll eyes" emoticon guy as a "hmmm" or "deep in thought" cause that's what it always looked like to me. I've never used that little guy before and that is what I always thought it was.

[gtmywings]

I have the stock 5.3 vortec truck oil pan on my 65 C10, but not thinking ahead I found out I have no clearance to remove & replace the oil pan to replace the oil pan gasket with pulling the engine out; does anyone know of a solution?

[brossow]

Originally Posted by gtmywings

I have the stock 5.3 vortec truck oil pan on my 65 C10, but not thinking ahead I found out I have no clearance to remove & replace the oil pan to replace the oil pan gasket with pulling the engine out; does anyone know of a solution?

Wow! This thread comes back from the dead after seven years.

How often do you plan to need to replace the oil pan gasket? Often enough that pulling (or at least lifting) the engine is a big deal? I could be wrong, but I'd be very surprised if any oil pan would have enough clearance around the crossmember that you could get the pan loose, let alone completely removed for gasket replacement.

[gtmywings]

~ I like these old threads they are sometimes helpful when working on old trucks.
Oil pan leaks are common on LS engines,(especcially for those with heavy feet on the gas); there has to be a solution other than pulling the engine, there is not enough clearance on the low hump cab to raise the engine. Just wondered if someone solved this with different engine mounts or oil pan.

[68c10airstream]

Hey gtmywings, Welcome, and if you want to remove the pan with the engine in place it's possible to jack up the truck and support the frame, use a cherry picker to hold the engine up, disconnect the motor mounts, remove all the cross member bolts to frame, brake lines, disconnect pitman arm, and drop and roll the cross member out of the way.

I would rather pull the motor myself as these ls motors are very easy to work on.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by gtmywings

~ Oil pan leaks are common on LS engines,(especcially for those with heavy feet on the gas); there has to be a solution other than pulling the engine.

That is an interesting statement (oil pan leaks are common). Care to back that up with something?

If you aren't going (or are able) to lift the engine in place that pan is not coming out of there. It won't clear the rotating assembly or oil pickup tube when you drop it.

[gtmywings]

I thought of that 68C10airstream, it looks like a previous owner welded the cross member to the frame, something I had to planned to address when I do a frame off, but in the mean time I would like to stop the leak, and I currently don't have a place to pull the engine, I just fixed 3 other small leaks that were accessible. This is my only vehicle & daily driver.

[gtmywings]

NC_John , do a google search on "common oil pan leaks on 5.3 vortec", it is one of the common areas that leak after 120K miles, I currently have 128000 on this engine. I am using the stock LM7 oil pan, if there is another oil pan that will give me the clearance such as f-body or vette, that may help in the future.
I may have to cut the low hump in the cab and make more room above the transmission in the future just so I can have access to removing oil pan.
Though it looks like I will have to pull the engine to fix this leak unless I can figure something out. I had hoped someone in this forum had found one.

[darrellyates]

The truck I'm building has an aftermarket frame (from Scott's). It requires an "F" body pan, or the camaro pan. It's got the shallowest (is that a word?) front, and yes, it's a 5.5 quart pan. As long as you're changing the oil, I don't think that's a big deal. I'm running it on the low HP 6.2/LS3; and the corvette pan that came on the crate motor didn't work either. I say corvette, it could be a cadillac pan, I'm not sure. Please realize I don't race the truck, so just remember that figures into my opinion here.

I had a truck pan on a previous build, which fit a factory frame (lowered) OK. The pan did hang below the cross member though. I wasn't in the weeds, so I was OK.

Guess it depends on your build. Summit has an "F" body pan kit, with the pan, tray, and pick up tube including gasket. Think it was slightly over $230? Don't really want to remember... Worked though. I agree that best idea is to stay with a GM pan.

With the frame I have, I also didn't have room for the factory exhaust headers. I went with a set of "shorty" headers on e-bay. They work fine but I had to go to 135 degree spark plug wires. I'm also running fire socks over the wires just for safety.

Good Luck with your build!!