Any tips when looking to buy a 47-53?

[8t5Silverado]

Is there anything in particular I should look for?

All I know at the moment is that the truck is a 3/4 ton five window with a later model straight 6.

[Razor454]

Well, depends on what you want to do with it. Do you want to restore, leave as is, Hotrod or mild custom?

[solidaxel]

RUST in the lower parts and the total cost to complete, if you are going to keep it!!!

[8t5Silverado]

Well, for the time being I think I will find some "non-split" steel wheels, paint em red, get it to pass inspection, and drive it.

I am thinking I will try to lower it a bit and just enjoy it.

Maybe in a few years I will update the front suspension, replace the rear with a modern one, drop in a SBC...I don't expect to ever fix it up to complete show quality.

[JERRY COZADD]

hey guy's have a customer looking for front brake drums for his 41 chevy pu; 1/2 ton-6 lug- he is located in Hutchison,KS 67561, his name is Dan Maskil, telephone 1-620-422-5950,or reply to email address gertcozadd@yahoo.com, Thanks Jerry

[Fred T]

The biggest problems are wheels and suspension upgrades. The AD has the tie rods behind the front axle, and requires wheels with about 3.5" setback to clear the tie rod ends. I've been looking for some GM rims for mine for about 8 years. I did put rims off a 91 on the rear, but the setback is more, and the tires have about an inch clearance to the frame. There are some white spoke trailer wheels that have the right spacing, but you can't mount the GM hubcaps on them.

Rear end gearing is 4.56. Only upgrade is the pumpkin from a 64-72 with 4.10 gears. If you want anything better, you swap the differential, which is about 4" narrower than the later models. Problem then is that with the newer wheels the tires almost rub on the fenders.

Front end- there is no easy way to swap a 3/4 ton ifs, the frame is too wide. And there are no easy swaps for disc brakes. You can put a 5 or 6 bolt ifs on, and go to a car or 1/2 ton rear end, but you lose the load capacity.

V8's aren't the easiest engine to put in, but it can be done. Steering gear has to move to the outside of the frame.

Over all, I recommend a 1/2 ton for a driver, it's less work. But the 3/4 tons sell for a lot less money, thanks to the lack of easy upgrades. I'm currently using my original 52 3/4 ton for a daily driver.

[Fred T]

Jerry - Try www.bowtiebits.com in Wichita.

[Phat]

Dont be too afraid of the 3/4 ton.Rust is the biggest cost factor Like Fred says they are cheaper. Now there is NO problem with 3/4 ton frames for IFS at all. Some vette rear kits wont fit but most other stuff will. As a matter of fact i rather like the 3/4 ton frame.(and the long box) They are straight all the way back and pretty tuff little buggers.
I think your best improvement would be the rear end. I know i have a completly stock GMC with just the rear and master cyl changed and love driving it local. Daul line master cyl would be my first deal if i was gonna drive it stock.This poor guy just would not let me change to a daul line master and he paid the price......,safety first than the fun stuff I know i cant spell worth a damn...............

[TATE228]

rusr rust rust! rust is a huge problem with these trucks. my 52 is in such bad shape. i didn't look at it close enough when i bought it. if it's a solid truck i say go for it. just remember 5 windows bring the money so it might not be a good canidate to destroy with a v8 and ifs. sounds cool though.

[Hart_Rod]

How about a rust free one:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=154279

Rob