'67 5.3L Build Thread - Page 3 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

*mrhino* · 09-19-2010, 11:43 AM

nice truck so far, I'm almost done with my restoration and 5.3 swap. heres what i did for my trans cooler. i haven't ran it yet to see if it works good or not but i always have the option of using the factory cooler in the rad and the frame rail cooler together.

67C10BUB · 09-20-2010, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrhino

nice truck so far, I'm almost done with my restoration and 5.3 swap. heres what i did for my trans cooler. i haven't ran it yet to see if it works good or not but i always have the option of using the factory cooler in the rad and the frame rail cooler together.

Looks clean, but do you think it will get enough air flow on the inside of the frame channel like that?

*mrhino* · 09-20-2010, 02:43 PM

I dont really know for sure, But I think so. I plan on using a good synthetic trans fluid like Amsoil, it transfers heat better than others, but like i said, if I see it getting to hot, I can add a line straight up the frame rail to the rad cooler and that should take care of it.

67C10BUB · 09-20-2010, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrhino

I dont really know for sure, But I think so. I plan on using a good synthetic trans fluid like Amsoil, it transfers heat better than others, but like i said, if I see it getting to hot, I can add a line straight up the frame rail to the rad cooler and that should take care of it.

Sounds like a good plan. What are you doing for the power steering pressure line?

*mrhino* · 09-20-2010, 04:30 PM

i think i used stock lines from a 73. you have to replace the fitting in the back of the 5.3 p/s pump to make those work

67C10BUB · 09-21-2010, 06:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrhino

i think i used stock lines from a 73. you have to replace the fitting in the back of the 5.3 p/s pump to make those work

Interesting, I didn't think of using a later model year. I am have one made that goes from the inverted flare to a -6 JIC/AN. Then I will attach it to a metric O-ring to AN adapter. I'll be more specific with part#'s once it all gets here and I know if it worked out.

**Hart_Rod** · 09-21-2010, 07:06 AM

Nice build, errhhh I meant update,

.

67C10BUB · 09-23-2010, 05:05 PM

This is what I am doing for the fuel pressure gauge. Since I am running -6 AN for the fuel lines I put on a Russel P#670340 to screw a Summit 100psi gauge in to.

67C10BUB · 09-23-2010, 05:07 PM

I also thought that I would mention that my hose shop couldn't get me the metric O-ring fitting for the power steering pump, but I found that Russel P#648060 is an adaptor that will make this into a -6 AN male fitting, which he could make a hose for.

67C10BUB · 09-23-2010, 05:08 PM

This is what I stumbled across for the valve cover breather line. You just drill a hole in your intake tube, insert the grommet and press in the elbow. Then I can just hook up the 3/8" breather line to it.

67C10BUB · 09-23-2010, 05:10 PM

When I posted pics of my ac compressor it was brought to my attention that I am going to have ac line clearance issues, so I notched the flared portion of the frame as seen here.

67C10BUB · 09-23-2010, 05:13 PM

This is what I have done for my oil pressure gauge. I drilled and tapped the oil cooler take-off cover for 1/8-28 NPT and screwed the sender right in.

67C10BUB · 09-23-2010, 05:18 PM

This is where I was told to put my water temp sender, but it is metric. Everyone said that it was 12mm, but nobody ever said the thread pitch (that I could find anyway), so I bought M12x1, but it was a bad guess. What you need is a M12x1.5 to 1/8"NPT adapter. This is Auto Meter part# ATM-2277. Hopefully all of these specifics will help someone else to not make the same mistakes I have.

Jacfourteen · 09-23-2010, 06:55 PM

Great thread! I will be watching for sure!

6D8_C10 · 09-23-2010, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67C10BUB

Hopefully all of these specifics will help someone else to not make the same mistakes I have.

Yes it will. Thank you.

I am doing the edelbrock carb/MSD controller conversion.

Q1: on the power steering, did you have the adapter/converter at the old steering box end, or at the new pump end of the hose?

Q2: What kind of motor mount adapter did you use? The one I got does not allow my AC pump to be on.

Q3: where is the water temp sensor? Is that the bolt right behind the header tube on the head?

Im sure I will have other questions. Thanks again.

*mrhino* · 09-23-2010, 08:31 PM

Q3: where is the water temp sensor? Is that the bolt right behind the header tube on the head?

Yes, the temp sensor goes right where that bolt sticking out is.
I ended up buying a new 12mm sender from classic instruments, after spending days looking for a 12mm to 1/8 pipe adapter ( to the best of my knowledge there inst one)and/or a any OEM sender that would work. as far as the oil pressure sender I just hogged out a Stock one and tapped the inside to 1/8 pipe works great.

breeze85cten · 09-23-2010, 10:10 PM

I have been doing the same swap into an 85 c10. Just wondering what your plans are for the engine harness?

68GMCCustom · 09-23-2010, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67C10BUB

This is what I stumbled across for the valve cover breather line. You just drill a hole in your intake tube, insert the grommet and press in the elbow. Then I can just hook up the 3/8" breather line to it.

I'd run it thru a catch can 1st. These LSx motors have a history of sucking oil residue right past the pcv and into the intake tract.

67C10BUB · 09-24-2010, 05:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrhino

Q3: where is the water temp sensor? Is that the bolt right behind the header tube on the head?

Yes, the temp sensor goes right where that bolt sticking out is.
I ended up buying a new 12mm sender from classic instruments, after spending days looking for a 12mm to 1/8 pipe adapter ( to the best of my knowledge there inst one)and/or a any OEM sender that would work. as far as the oil pressure sender I just hogged out a Stock one and tapped the inside to 1/8 pipe works great.

The Auto Meter part # ATM-2277 is that exact adaptor, M12x1.5. Buy that and the temp sending unit will screw right in.

67C10BUB · 09-24-2010, 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by breeze85cten

I have been doing the same swap into an 85 c10. Just wondering what your plans are for the engine harness?

I'm going with Speartech. I'll post pics when I get it from him. He says 2-3 weeks. Hopefully he's right. I am anxious to get this thing rolling. The only thing that's stopping me is waiting for the harness (Speartech), the fuel tank (Boyd), and the electric fans (123 auto).

67C10BUB · 09-24-2010, 05:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6D8_C10

Yes it will. Thank you.

I am doing the edelbrock carb/MSD controller conversion.

Q1: on the power steering, did you have the adapter/converter at the old steering box end, or at the new pump end of the hose?

Q2: What kind of motor mount adapter did you use? The one I got does not allow my AC pump to be on.

Q3: where is the water temp sensor? Is that the bolt right behind the header tube on the head?

Im sure I will have other questions. Thanks again.

A1: The adapter mentioned goes into the power steering pump on the 5.3.

A2: I used the ECE mounting system. Look back at page 1 and you can see pics. The trans ECE X-member just bolted right into place too, with no drilling.

A3: Yup, on the passenger side.

67C10BUB · 09-24-2010, 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

I'd run it thru a catch can 1st. These LSx motors have a history of sucking oil residue right past the pcv and into the intake tract.

I read thru a lot of debate on this and decided that if it's good enough for factory, then it's good enough for me. Thanks for your input though. If anyone has any other suggestions on how to make this swap better/easier I'm all ears (or eyes in this case).

68GMCCustom · 09-24-2010, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67C10BUB

I read thru a lot of debate on this and decided that if it's good enough for factory, then it's good enough for me. Thanks for your input though. If anyone has any other suggestions on how to make this swap better/easier I'm all ears (or eyes in this case).

its like that pay me now or pay me later saying....you'll have to deal with it one way or the other. Leave it like "factory" and you'll be cleaning the throttle body every 15-30k depending on use, with possible injector cleaning needs as well....like I've had to do with my '99 T/A (LS1), '01 Sierra C3 (LQ4), '04 Yukon (LM7), and '06 TBSS (LS2). My '08 LY6 (LQ4/L92 hybrid) is carb'd but will still have a catch can.

jasonhall · 09-25-2010, 08:35 PM

Awesome build..

67C10BUB · 09-26-2010, 01:11 PM

This was a major find for me. I couldn't figure out how to hook up the power brake booster hose from the 5.3 to the '67 booster, since the hose on the 5.3 is 1/2" and the '67 check valve port is 3/8". This is GM part# 15823207 and it fits right into the '67 booster. It even comes with a new grommet. SWEET!!!

09-19-2010, 11:43 AM	#51
mrhino Account Suspended Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: USA Posts: 1,223	Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread nice truck so far, I'm almost done with my restoration and 5.3 swap. heres what i did for my trans cooler. i haven't ran it yet to see if it works good or not but i always have the option of using the factory cooler in the rad and the frame rail cooler together. Last edited by mrhino; 11-22-2010 at 04:22 PM.

09-20-2010, 02:43 PM	#53
mrhino Account Suspended Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: USA Posts: 1,223	Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread I dont really know for sure, But I think so. I plan on using a good synthetic trans fluid like Amsoil, it transfers heat better than others, but like i said, if I see it getting to hot, I can add a line straight up the frame rail to the rad cooler and that should take care of it.

09-20-2010, 04:30 PM	#55
mrhino Account Suspended Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: USA Posts: 1,223	Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread i think i used stock lines from a 73. you have to replace the fitting in the back of the 5.3 p/s pump to make those work

09-21-2010, 07:06 AM	#57
Hart_Rod ************* Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Pensacola, FL Posts: 17,831	Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread Nice build, errhhh I meant update, . __________________ Rob - https://www.instagram.com/hart_rod_c10 As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another. Proverbs 27:17 FOR SALE: DBW pedal bracket - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123 FOR SALE: Hood Brackets http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679945 1987 Silverado SWB - 34.5K original miles http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=801834 1969 SuperBurb - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200387 1968 Farm truck - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=358692 1968 SWB - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551258 1948 Chevy - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=122164&page=3 Last edited by Hart_Rod; 09-21-2010 at 07:06 AM.

09-23-2010, 05:05 PM	#58
67C10BUB Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Alta Loma, CA Posts: 610	Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread This is what I am doing for the fuel pressure gauge. Since I am running -6 AN for the fuel lines I put on a Russel P#670340 to screw a Summit 100psi gauge in to. Attached Images

09-23-2010, 05:07 PM	#59
67C10BUB Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Alta Loma, CA Posts: 610	Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread I also thought that I would mention that my hose shop couldn't get me the metric O-ring fitting for the power steering pump, but I found that Russel P#648060 is an adaptor that will make this into a -6 AN male fitting, which he could make a hose for.

09-23-2010, 05:08 PM	#60
67C10BUB Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Alta Loma, CA Posts: 610	Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread This is what I stumbled across for the valve cover breather line. You just drill a hole in your intake tube, insert the grommet and press in the elbow. Then I can just hook up the 3/8" breather line to it. Attached Images

09-23-2010, 05:10 PM	#61
67C10BUB Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Alta Loma, CA Posts: 610	Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread When I posted pics of my ac compressor it was brought to my attention that I am going to have ac line clearance issues, so I notched the flared portion of the frame as seen here. Attached Images

09-23-2010, 05:13 PM	#62
67C10BUB Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Alta Loma, CA Posts: 610	Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread This is what I have done for my oil pressure gauge. I drilled and tapped the oil cooler take-off cover for 1/8-28 NPT and screwed the sender right in. Attached Images

09-23-2010, 05:18 PM	#63
67C10BUB Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Alta Loma, CA Posts: 610	Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread This is where I was told to put my water temp sender, but it is metric. Everyone said that it was 12mm, but nobody ever said the thread pitch (that I could find anyway), so I bought M12x1, but it was a bad guess. What you need is a M12x1.5 to 1/8"NPT adapter. This is Auto Meter part# ATM-2277. Hopefully all of these specifics will help someone else to not make the same mistakes I have. Attached Images

09-23-2010, 06:55 PM	#64
Jacfourteen Big Red - Now its a SWB! Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Oroville, Ca Posts: 1,624	Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread Great thread! I will be watching for sure! __________________ 68 3/4 ton (Project)-350 Small Block, .030 over, 10:1 comp, 3998993 heads, C3BX edelbrock intake, comp cams XE268, Holley 670 SA, long tube headers, dual flow 40's, E-fan, Alum rad, currently under the knife getting shortened and bagged build thread 41 3/4 ton (wife's)-flatbed, fully restored to original 01 Tahoe LT 4WD (my daily driver)-Magnaflow Muffler, Rollin on 22's 02 Ford Mustang Convertable (Wife's Car)-Flowmaster 50, Clear corners, Intake, sittin on 18's

09-23-2010, 08:31 PM	#66
mrhino Account Suspended Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: USA Posts: 1,223	Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread Q3: where is the water temp sensor? Is that the bolt right behind the header tube on the head? Yes, the temp sensor goes right where that bolt sticking out is. I ended up buying a new 12mm sender from classic instruments, after spending days looking for a 12mm to 1/8 pipe adapter ( to the best of my knowledge there inst one)and/or a any OEM sender that would work. as far as the oil pressure sender I just hogged out a Stock one and tapped the inside to 1/8 pipe works great. Last edited by mrhino; 09-23-2010 at 08:32 PM.

09-23-2010, 10:10 PM	#67
breeze85cten Registered User Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 162	Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread I have been doing the same swap into an 85 c10. Just wondering what your plans are for the engine harness?

09-25-2010, 08:35 PM	#74
jasonhall Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Stillwater Oklahoma Posts: 829	Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread Awesome build..

09-26-2010, 01:11 PM	#75
67C10BUB Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Alta Loma, CA Posts: 610	Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread This was a major find for me. I couldn't figure out how to hook up the power brake booster hose from the 5.3 to the '67 booster, since the hose on the 5.3 is 1/2" and the '67 check valve port is 3/8". This is GM part# 15823207 and it fits right into the '67 booster. It even comes with a new grommet. SWEET!!! Attached Images



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.