68 burban

[rusty1428]

looking to lower my burban but i cant afford bags as of yet. What would be the best way to go about this?

[LockDoc]

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Lowering springs I would say. I don't know a lot about them or what to tell you to buy though.

LockDoc

[rusty1428]

cool ty.

[Mr Pops]

or just cut a loop off your current coils. Should bring it down 3" or so.. You might want to grab a few coils from the wreckers to experiment with, or you may end up quoting my signature..

[rusty1428]

sweet thanks. I have been looking at drop spindals but i need to change out the front end to disk. I want to have it on the road for the summer. Cutting the ciol is a great idea ty

[AzDon]

Take special care cutting the coils...... The tops of the coils are wound smaller into a "D" shape that fits the top pocket in a specific "clock" orientation and the pocket in the lower "A" arm also has a specific clock orientation where the cut end of the coil goes, so you wanna make your cut from the bottom of the coil and have it correspond with the lower pocket when it is properly located at the top. I'm not sure one coil loop will equal 3 inches drop, but if you cut two coils, you'll probably have no suspension left (not reccommended!)
Measuring coil loops center to center of one above the other with the coils loaded should give you a ballpark minimum drop.... it will actually be a little lower.
Also, if you dont want it to creak and groan when the suspension works, you'll want to slip a piece of hose over the cut end to insulate the metal-to-metal twisting in the pocket

[rusty1428]

Thanks Don, this is my first rodeo so all the specific info is very helpful. Is yours
bags?
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[gcburdic]

I'd do spindles up front first if you can afford them....if not, cutting the spring is your cheapest route....and springs in the back....To get discs up front, you can use the complete front crossmember out of a 73-87 truck...may have to drill a couple holes to make it work, but many folks have done it....grab the booster and mastercylinder too from the donor truck if you go that route....read more here http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

[Mr Pops]

Wow! awesome links!

[AzDon]

Mine is lowered with 2.5" lowered spindles, one round of coil cut off and carefully sized 15" tires. I am not bagged!
IMO, You will be money ahead if you get the disc brake/lowered spindle complete kit from CPP, McGaughy, or MP brakes. These kits give you a choice of five or six lug rotors, all bearings, seals, calipers, hoses and a set of lowered spindles that are drilled to fit your stock ball joints and rod ends, all for less than $700. It's a lot less work than a complete crossmember swap, and you get new stuff and a lowered result at a price you arent gonna beat by starting with JY stuff.
Somebody had already done a 71-72 crossmember swap on mine, so I already had used five-lug disc-brake stuff, but still needed to buy the dropped spindles.
In the rear, I used 2" CPP lowering blocks and adjustable track bar (to properly center the lowered axle).
My burb is almost too low in front, so I could raise it some by putting on taller wheels and tires IF I THOUGHT THEY LOOK GOOD!

[rusty1428]

Ok thanks man, yours is for sure sweet. I think I might go that rout. Little more money but worth it in the long run.
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