The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > General Truck Forums > Suspension


Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-23-2021, 08:28 PM   #2026
Custom 68
Registered User
Custom 68's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,879
Re: Make it handle

Make sure you don't have any binding in your steering column. As I'm sure you know the u joints have a limit on angles. If you are over that you will get some notchy binding.
1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap
1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?)
"A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome".
"If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!"
Custom 68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2021, 09:27 PM   #2027
Registered User
SCOTI's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 20,582
Re: Make it handle

That's a good point.
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
SCOTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2021, 01:55 AM   #2028
Rob Fisher
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Coquitlam, British Columbia,Canada
Posts: 132
Re: Make it handle

I took the tires off and have the suspension at Ride height and it cycles left to right as smooth as can be. With the tires back on and driving around it returns to being knotchy.
Rob Fisher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2021, 01:39 AM   #2029
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 16
Re: Make it handle

Originally Posted by SCOTI View Post
True. There's a big difference between Vette vs truck weights; especially on the front hub. I know my research on comparable aftermarket high end spindles suggested there is a tug-o-war going on about the reliance of sealed bearings.

The spindles using the C5/6/7 sealed bearing set-ups recommend only using the top tier Zr1 parts because of short life span on alternative replacement parts. Those suckers are ~$400 a pop; pricy if you're replacing things more frequently. Thus the old stand-by wheel bearings w/their easy serviceability & 'common-folk' friendly purchase price are a value to those that have limited resources.

I see value in both. But, w/o having first-hand exposure on the lifespan of unit-bearings I'm @ a disadvantage of how 'worthy' they are in the scheme of things (return on investment).

I have tall upper BJ's on my C10's. I just know from my previously mentioned research that the disc brake style C10 spindles were taller than most for their era. From my notes:

67-72 A/F/X/& G body 'short' spindles ~7-7.5"
70-81 F/B-body & 73-87 C10 'tall' spindles ~9"
C4 Vette ~11"
ATS & Wilwood aftermarket spindle ~9"

*I can confirm the 73-87 C10, G-body, & C4 Vette spindle heights as I own them & actually measured for the research when trying to source something better for a g-body. The other numbers were from online look-up & could be suspect/incorrect.

This is true & apparently time consuming (I'm still waiting for ATS spindles paid for in June). The ATS spindle is forged & I believe the Wilwood is as well. But, even the forged versions have an expected lifespan (x-miles/x-years) before they SHOULD be replaced. It's a limitation most don't even think about for their steel spindles

I confess I haven't really studied the Wilwood spindle because I'm a fan of being able to source the parts used from OE applications (Have a brake part issue in Podunk, TX. Pop into Oreillys/Auotzone/Advance Auto & ask for a Wilwood pad/caliper/master cyl/hose etc....). However, you can usually do the same for PBR & Brembo parts & they'll have something.

I'm 100% w/you on a spindle designed for optimum set-points of the geometry & tuning for the steering. I'm on the fence about the sealed hubs being 'better'. I assumed they were until reading about the alarming failure rate for typical store-bought replacement parts.

If you are going to C5/C6 bearing, I would only run ZR1s or SKF X trackers. They do take much more abuse than the OEM bearing. LG replies in post 10 listing how long they used bearings. They are about $400 and you'll likely have to go to a shop that supports the Corvette HPDE/ race community. The x tracker is basically the same design as C6 Zr1 bearings. Splines and abs signal change.

The post was for World Challenge Racing which was aero, big brakes, basically heads and cam LS6s, wheel to wheel, hard racing. Failure rates for various parts were higher than what most club racers experience now. I also assume this was for SKF x trackers as SKF also offers a more OEM replacement bearing which is what you'll get at NAPA, Autozone etc. Corvettes were also running world challenge before the x tracker came out and the regular SKF is an improvement over stock.

His reply:
For us on one of the World Challenge cars.....closest to what you guys run on track this is what we would see time wise out of the bearings on track.

OEM GM bearings
1 weekend event (80 mins practice, 20 min qual, 50 min race) Approx 2.5 hrs track time

GM blueprinted "race" bearings
3-4 weekend events, approx 10 hrs total run time on track

SKF bearings,
28-34 hrs total run time on track
I help a friend maintain a C5 HPDE car which has a Nine Lives wing and splitter on 100 tread wear tires and he has been a few seasons on X trackers. I believe they would last a long time on C10 especially on the street. I'd have more faith in them than Silverado bearings. As posted above they are 5x4.75. If I went that route I'd set the rear up to use the same. DSE is likely using the X tracker in their front suspensions for F-bodies, Novas etc. AFX spindles have also used X trackers on 64-72 A-bodies.

I agree with you on parts which you can find in OEM applications. I have toyed with idea of a No Limit wide ride and CPP tall spindles (2 gen fbody) for the C5 bearings. But, then you're mixing parts to run a few OEM parts but using aftermarket control arms etc for their suspension.

Aluminum spindles/knuckles do have a life span. Another part that changed thanks to the C6 ZR1 was the spindle. The early spindles have had the ears which mount the caliper break off. GM discovered flex in the spindle and changed the manufacturing process when the ZR1 came out. I have not heard of the later knuckles failing. The failure on the original design were after many seasons of racing. I do know of one that failed on a 72 Charger with an aftermarket suspension using C5/C6 spindles and big Baer brakes with many autox days.
70 C10 SWB Step 250/3sp
01 2500HD 6.0/4L80E gasser Daily Driver

Last edited by 93Polo; 10-04-2021 at 01:47 AM.
93Polo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2021, 01:29 PM   #2030
Registered User
cab4word67's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: portland oregon
Posts: 97
Re: Make it handle

Question with caster. I have a 67 stepside with tube up control arms and the truck sits very low. 245x35 20s. it has about .5 degree of of camber and close to 4 degrees of caster. What I notice is when backing out of my driveway the front tires seam to drag? is that the caster? it drives nice a straight, and handles the corners like on rails.
cab4word67 is offline   Reply With Quote


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:26 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2020