Make it handle

[69vetteside]

I installed my NO LIMIT panhard this weekend and i have the same question.
would'nt it be easier to adjust having a left and right hiem joint on both ends.i thought it a bit time consuming having to unbolt and take of then adjust and rebolt up till you got the right measurement.
But all that aside it works great and has contributed to the truck handleing a bit better.
Now i definetly have to put my C notch's on as that tiny bracket was just enough to lower it so now it hits on big bumps in the road. must have been close to the limit before

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

Originally Posted by 72chevynoob

Finally! Read the whole thing! I have a question, why does the no limit panhard have a bushing in one end and a heim joint in the other? Is it for some give, or would I be ok to put rod ends in both ends of mine?
Justin
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Originally Posted by 69vetteside

I installed my NO LIMIT panhard this weekend and i have the same question.
would'nt it be easier to adjust having a left and right hiem joint on both ends.i thought it a bit time consuming having to unbolt and take of then adjust and rebolt up till you got the right measurement.
But all that aside it works great and has contributed to the truck handleing a bit better.
Now i definetly have to put my C notch's on as that tiny bracket was just enough to lower it so now it hits on big bumps in the road. must have been close to the limit before

The NO LIMIT bar has a slight bend in it to clear the diff housing, the welded end with a bushing serves as a way to keep the orientation of the bend in the right location, away from the diff.

[higXtech]

this is such a great thread. I'm looking forward to a future Make it stop thread.

[DURG]

Rear suspension is now complete. The bolt on brackets will be welded and I will remove the top bolt and sleeves so as not to interfere with the bump stop installed on the underside of the notch. I will also need to weld up the 2 piece Porterbuilt rear end tube mounts when the pinion angle is final. I ended up with 15.5" long arms on the rear bar and it's 37.5 inches wide .095" diameter for a rating of ~175 lbs. @ 5 degrees of twist. I will probably drill some more holes in the arms just to make them look cooler when I tear the truck chassis back down for paint. I used the greaseable bushings. There does look like 10 pounds of **** in a 5 pound bag back here, but everything appears to have adequate clearance and should be fine.

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by DURG

Rear suspension is now complete. The bolt on brackets will be welded and I will remove the top bolt and sleeves so as not to interfere with the bump stop installed on the underside of the notch. I will also need to weld up the 2 piece Porterbuilt rear end tube mounts when the pinion angle is final. I ended up with 15.5" long arms on the rear bar and it's 37.5 inches wide .095" diameter for a rating of ~175 lbs. @ 5 degrees of twist. I will probably drill some more holes in the arms just to make them look cooler when I tear the truck chassis back down for paint. I used the greaseable bushings. There does look like 10 pounds of **** in a 5 pound bag back here, but everything appears to have adequate clearance and should be fine.

That's effin handy work there man! Nice job!

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by higXtech

this is such a great thread. I'm looking forward to a future Make it stop thread.

That would be a great topic!
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[robnolimit]

The heim on one end helps to eliminate any mismatch between the mounts. If the two ends are 'bushed', and one mount isn't parallel to the other, then there is a constant bind. the kit in question is a bolt-on, mostly, and we have to take into account the variables of 40+ year old chassis. If it was a pure weld-on, we would rely on the installer to set these parts accurately. OE bolt holes may force a mount 1 or 2 degrees off, so we use a hiem to eliminate any potential binding.

[69vetteside]

thanks rob for clarifying.

[72chevynoob]

^x2
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[robnolimit]

BTW, I like the panhard set up shown above. Long and low, very nice. Towards the end of last season, the Hellboy was really coming together after a half season of tuning, and a 'first ever' happened. At the Good-Guys Del Mar show, we actually raised the panhard bar up one step to raise the roll center. ??? Yep. The spring/shock/swaybar set up was so good the the back of the truck was a little 'too' well planted, and wasn't rotating in the corner. The back being so well planted caused the front to 'push' a bit. This is the first time we ever wanted less rear bite. By the time we made the adjustment, there was only time for one run, and although better, we didn't catch Brett's '33. But now we know.

[robnolimit]

Last night i was invited to the premier of a new Speed CHannel show, "R U Faster than a Redneck" Its american muscle against import power, with a bunch of good guys in the mix. We know most of the "Rednecks" from autocross and American Streetcar series, and they did a great job showing off our hot rodding and pro-touring addiction. This show will air on monday nights on Speed. Special airing tonight, friday, on Speed, not sure of the time. CHeck it out for a fun 30 minutes.

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Last night i was invited to the premier of a new Speed CHannel show, "R U Faster than a Redneck" Its american muscle against import power, with a bunch of good guys in the mix. We know most of the "Rednecks" from autocross and American Streetcar series, and they did a great job showing off our hot rodding and pro-touring addiction. This show will air on monday nights on Speed. Special airing tonight, friday, on Speed, not sure of the time. CHeck it out for a fun 30 minutes.

My DVR is already set. I've been keeping up with it on pro-touring.com.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Last night i was invited to the premier of a new Speed CHannel show, "R U Faster than a Redneck" Its american muscle against import power, with a bunch of good guys in the mix. We know most of the "Rednecks" from autocross and American Streetcar series, and they did a great job showing off our hot rodding and pro-touring addiction. This show will air on monday nights on Speed. Special airing tonight, friday, on Speed, not sure of the time. CHeck it out for a fun 30 minutes.

So you think you may drive some of the cars? Be nice to see a truck lay waste to some top of the line cars
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[68swamprat]

rob i have a 68 c20 im looking to build two new track bars with adjustable ends. im also going to lower it but i still want be able to pull my camper or track car what brands have good streaght and whats a good ride highth for this thanks.

ps i broke the trac bars thats why im redoing the the stuff
and it was sitting in a swamp for 8 years

[jimmydean]

I can't wait for this show. It's always an interesting debate with friends of mine who like euro/asian tuner cars vs. muscle.

A friend of mine picked up a very nice BMW M3 that he felt was worthy, so I took him on a quick run out and back on HWY 219 (8 miles, 7 of it twisty) with my '94 Vette and my buddies '05 Vette. I lead out with the BMW behind me and the C6 in the rear. I had no issues leaving the M3, but could tell Joe was getting pissed in his C6. I let Joe lead home with me in the middle and his 30% more HP was very noticeable exiting corners.

Poor Dave in his $15k M3 was left hating the American "sports car"

My C4 was $4k, Joe got his C6 for $14k.

[Goats86]

Insidious, where did you get HID projectors for your 86?

[robnolimit]

SPECIAL Motorstate (800-772-2678) has Howe Racing 63-72 tall upper ball joints on closeout. Item #HOW22300SA normal list is 36, closeout $12. they show 13 in stock. Good for a quicker camber gain with stock style arms/spindles.

FUN Check Speed Channel for the Optima Ultimate Streetcar Invitational, on this week. Got some god truck coverage.

[69gmcc10]

Rob,

I saw the Optima Ultimate Streetcar Invitational, you were in the top 10 in allot of events, congrats! I looked like everyone was havin a good time.

I called Motorstate to buy a set of upper ball joints and when I gave them the part number you posted they said they were standard 4 bolt upper ball joints and they were regular price. Do you have any insight?

[derrickmanx1]

Does anyone have a suggestion on a rear sway bar for the cpp rear trailing arms. I have a new stock style. I guess I could fab up some clamps on the arms but if there is anything else that works better someone let me know.

[derrickmanx1]

Hey Rob would your sb-190 work with my tubular trailing arms?

[CSGAS]

Derrick, for a rear bar you could go with a NASCAR (and other asphalt racers) splined bar but in order to get the effect down to what Rob recommends you would need a weak torsion bar in there (they make them hollow but the weakest still carry the same effect as a 1" bar) AND use longer arms to reduce the effect.

Another option is just to run the bar towards the back frame rails and attaching to the axle. There are a few pix around here of people using G-body rear sway bars and even F-body bars both with the links attached to tabs on the axle and the other way around with the links on the frame and the bar clamped to the axle. Those have a "hump" built in to clear the differential.

[CSGAS]

Rob, I started checking out the Caprice spindles you mentioned along with brake options (actually I was looking for an 11' 6-lug option to keep 15" wheels until I really spend money).

The investigation led to Astro van front subframes, 5/8" ball joints and Cadillac B-body front suspensions. The latter, along with 70's Caprices, use the same 11.86 x 1.25" 5x5" rotors the 73-87 trucks use, while the late 80's early 90's Caprices and the 5-lug Astros use the 11.86" x 1" version also used on light-duty 79-87 trucks.

How does the spindle height work out on those Caddy/early Caprice spindles, or have you checked any? Are they still two-piece on the early Caprice? I'm considering swapping the whole lower arm from an Astro or Caddy (to get the 5/8" lower ball joint) and use an early Caprice spindle if the news is good. It's still a ways off, but I haven't found a 6-lug option that works out the way I want (they all take money instead of junkyard--oops, I mean standard GM parts bin items.

ps (I really like the 2000-2006 Truck R&Ps, too bad the price difference is likely to lead me to an 80s+ box, p/s pump w/o-rings also, and trying to modify that centerlink we have. Not enough info to give an opinion on the 2007+ racks. Are the 2000-2006s the same rack as the Dakotas use with longer tie rods? Some parts interchange, but the Dakota's only about 58" track and the Chevys are 62-65")

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Rob. If a person was to get both a panhard bar and a watts link and was able to mount them in optimal positions with the roll centers at the approximate same level. Which would you choose? I would think they even a long panhard that's even with the ground would still take a corner better one direction better than the other?
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[laid67]

Rob, and anyone else who's listening. I just started on my 67 c10. Ive already taken a TON of info from this thread and its all great. I really appreciate those who put their ideas and knowlege up here. It's fed my desire to make my truck the best it can be. I just had a few questions to anyone with a little insight. Well, I'l put up my current plan for the frame and basic suspension and see if anyone has any objections.
Rear end-
-already notched in a manner simmilar to JT except with a little bit higher notch ~ 5 inches
-Keeping stock trailing arm for now, but am wondering if it might be a good idea to re-work the cross member they attach to so that on the axle end I can mount them farther out twards the tires. Then move my spring and shock mounts outboard of the frame so they line up with the trailing arms in their new location. I'm thinking this will allow me to run a bit taller spring for better ride and have wider legs on my bar stool as it were.
It appears I will not have any interference with the trailing arms hitting the frame, which was my main concern.
I have a ton more questions but I'll leave it at this for now.
Thanks!
-Brad

[laid67]

*edit for clarity.
-Keeping stock trailing arm for now, but am wondering if it might be a good idea to
re-work the cross member so the trailing arms can attach to the axle end farther out twards the tires. Then move my spring and shock mounts outboard of the frame so they line up with the trailing arms in their new location. I'm thinking this will allow me to run a bit taller spring for better ride and have wider legs on my bar stool as it were.