Making plans: Power Plant

[adzints7]

I recently purchased a 1972 Custom/10 4x4 A/C Suburban that I PLAN on keeping forever. My goal is to have a comfortable family cruiser that I can load up and drive anywhere I want...SoCal to Tahoe, mammoth, Santa Cruz, AZ, OR...or wherever. I also want something that is powerful and fast. I will use it on the HWY, street and a bit off road. This is my hot rod, truck replacement, vintage 4x4 and family car all wrapped up in to one. I have a commuter that I will rely on for a DD but I want something I can fire up and make my 60 mile commute if I want to. I am new to classic cars and I am trying to learn as much as I can despite a 1 1/2 year old and pregnant wife

I have friends as resources for classics in general but none with classic chevy 4x4. I know that modern engines and transmissions can be dropped in to my vehicle, but I am somewhat at a loss for what to choose. I would like to plan a budget and begin my search. LS, LQ BB or SBC. Or rebuild what I got which is a decently running 350/th350/np205? Knowing myself I will lean towards a new crate w/warranty but I could be convinced of a take out. I have a very capable mechanic who will do or assist with any of the work. I do plan of asking the same question of him but I wanted to see what this community may have to say,

If money were no object, and I am not saying it is not, what would be the prefect engine and tranny? Consider my goals, and lack of knowledge but high enthusiasm for learning.

I am guessing may bring a plethora of responses but I really would like to see what people consider an appropriate option for the use I will have.

[Bigdav160]

It seems the modern wisdom is to install a LS based engine. A 4x4 Suburban is close to 5000 pounds so a 5.3L is probably minimum displacement and would not fulfill your need for power. I did not go this route mostly because of the extra required time to do the swap. I am a big Cummins fanboy (two DD at home) but again, to save time I elected not to do a diesel swap.

The best bang for the buck would be to stay with the older SBC. Increasing the displacement to 383 would give you a nice boost of torque to move the Suburban down the road.

I am a fuel injection fan. I elected to install a home brewed injection setup (Holley StealthRam/CompXFI roller/microsquirt controller). I also installed a 700R4 transmission, replaced the 4.10 gears with 3.73 w/front and rear lockers and I feel this combination is exactly what I was shooting for.

[LockDoc]

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Keep it as simple as you can for now unless you have unlimited funds. You have two things working against you right off the bat with the young kids and inexperience with old trucks. Not saying you can't overcome them but it is really easy to get yourself in over your head. It also depends in what you have for space to work on it. Concentrate on getting the truck running reliably with the engine that's in it and making sure all of the basic safety equipment is in good shape. (brakes, lighting, driveline, steering, & wheels and tires. Then check out the comfort part making sure the heater/defroster works correctly, windows roll up & down easily, etc.. That alone will keep you busy for quite a while.....

After you get all of that done drive it for a while as you plan other upgrades or changes.

Just a voice of experience speaking....

LockDoc

[ChopsawSurgeon]

LockDoc pretty much summed it up the best way possible. What you have for the powertrain right now is a reliable setup and if the engine runs strong, you shouldn't have to do much to keep it going.

[Alex V.]

Nothing at all wrong with your current powertrain if it's all in good working order. If I was building the 'Burb you describe, I'd probably want a Vortec 350 converted to carburetor (takes out most of the electronics but leaves the refinement of the roller cam and Vortec heads) with a 4L80E and 3.73-4.10 gears, depending on tire size goals. An LS engine will be very smooth and powerful, but not the cheapest option and more complex from the electronics standpoint. A moderately warmed up 350 or 383 should handle your cruising needs easily, as long as you don't expect it to be "fast" and economical when towing much of a trailer. I'd make all the trips you mentioned in my bone stock '67, but that's me. Good luck with your build, and remember, these old beasts would do what you want to do the day they rolled off the line so every mod available isn't necessary just to enjoy it!

[adzints7]

Thanks for the replies and advice. I am planning on driving it a couple years as is and doing what LockDoc suggests. I have a few old leaks to chase and a few minor repairs, however it brakes and drives perfectly well. I am very happy with the current condition and do not need to change anything. I just know that I will want to consider it for the future and thought I would plan a budget out. I bought this instead of a 50k truck so essentially I saved 38k!

I have lots of help in terms of seasoned wrenches, so i would not undertake any projects without help under the hood first.

Keep the ideas coming though!

[HO455]

My two cents to add to LockDoc's wisdom would be to involve your mechanic in your decision as it sounds like your going to be depending on his time and skills.

[adzints7]

Absolutely, I am meeting with him tomorrow to discuss a few things and have a look at the overall health of Dirtfoot. I read most of your WMB build so far. Nice looking and I do like that paint! I think I may have a 305 under the hood as well. Can't get at the casting due to the 4x4 engine further back but the suffix appears to be CPP. Closest thing I could find was CPR when I looked it up, 76 305...of course I'm new so that could certainly be my mistake.

[Bigdav160]

The engine in my Suburban started out as an L82 out of an '78 Indy Pace car Vette. Unfortunately someone installed a RV cam and terrible 305 heads. It was almost impossible to keep it out of detonation.

I see CPR listed as:
CPR 1980 267 120 2 L39
CPR 1977 305 145 2 LG3

It seems CPx are all late '70's 305 or 267

Not good choices for a 5000 lb truck.

[adzints7]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

The engine in my Suburban started out as an L82 out of an '78 Indy Pace car Vette. Unfortunately someone installed a RV cam and terrible 305 heads. It was almost impossible to keep it out of detonation.

I see CPR listed as:
CPR 1980 267 120 2 L39
CPR 1977 305 145 2 LG3

It seems CPx are all late '70's 305 or 267

Not good choices for a 5000 lb truck.

Got a better look and it seems to be CPB. Mechanic buddy thinks it's a 350 though, couldn't get to the casting number though. Installed a new oil pan today, that was a bigger job than expected. Also helped the automatic choke spring out by flattening a dent in the housing. A few idle adjustments also, but it seems the secondaries are not willing to open readily. Time for a rebuild or new carb.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by adzints7

Absolutely, I am meeting with him tomorrow to discuss a few things and have a look at the overall health of Dirtfoot. I read most of your WMB build so far. Nice looking and I do like that paint! I think I may have a 305 under the hood as well. Can't get at the casting due to the 4x4 engine further back but the suffix appears to be CPP. Closest thing I could find was CPR when I looked it up, 76 305...of course I'm new so that could certainly be my mistake.

Thanks for the good words and keep us in loop as to what you decide to do. I'm going to have to some sort of torque upgrade myself at some point.

[Hart_Rod]

LS like this...

[s_nova69]

Screw old crap. Do it right

http://m.chevrolet.com/performance/c...l#.WFPy7BpHaEc

This is a drop in deal. U can get a wiring harness and factory tune with it. Start it and floor it. It comes with a nice warranty too. This is what I plan to do with my suburban

By the time you build something even close to this you will be in it the same money and a LOT more headache. Coming from my experience.

[Bigdav160]

Phil, I clicked your link and it just took me to Chevrolet.com. The OP said he wasn't looking for a new car.

[LuckyScott]

I have had my 72 suburban for around 25 years. My wife and I bought it for our two kids and to tow our toys. (boat, race car, etc) It was decent, with 80,000 miles and we paid $1800.00 for it. As a young family, I needed to save every dollar I made.
The truck currently has over 230,000 miles and still runs great with the original 350 motor. I did do a valve job and a timing chain on it. Otherwise, the motor has never been out of the truck.
I suggest you just drive it. Enjoy it. and fix little things that may pop up from time to time. If you need help with the 4X4 part I know a great shop in Corona. (I currently have a 72 Blazer there right now)
You bought a great truck and if you take care of it you will have a dependable family vehicle.

[s_nova69]

Try this

[adzints7]

Phil-
My understanding is there's a bit more than just dropping that in one of our trucks? Harness and fuel system are two big ones I'm aware of. I love the idea of it but I don't want cost to get away from me. Know if I KNOW ahead of time then sure, I'll save longer. Still kinda bummed on the 305 if that's what I truly have in there. Thanks to all the replies.

[HO455]

Here is a option that is in a more realistic budget for a lot of us. I know nothing about this particular person selling this, but it seems like an interesting option if your inclined to go the factory EFI route.

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/5917165696.html

[adzints7]

That does seem very interesting...might have to consider this. Sent it to my buddy, since he is the expert out of the two of us!

Hart-rod, I really dig that paint scheme. Are you going to run any trim, particularly on the upper border like a Cheyenne truck? If so, I am interested in how you go about finding or fabricating them. Seems as though its possible the long bed and a few extra pieces may work but I dont really know.

[s_nova69]

Hey not trying to push. The cost is not that bad for a high hp warranty setup. Summit shows 12,800. And a plug and play harness is available from gm for this exact engine. Fuel supply is easy as the engine comes with its own high pressure fuel pump.

What better way to go than 650hp?
Just a .02$ opinion.

U did say budget wasn't really a problem and u wanted tons of power

You would have to give power and ground and a few simple other inputs like water temp and such. U wouldn't need to tune it at all. It would be perfectly setup from gm. Does t seem any easier to make 650hp

[adzints7]

Phil-
Not pushing at all and I DID say if cost were not an issue. I was mostly inquiring a bit more about it rather than refuting the idea all together. Your recommendation is one of the ideas I want to hear a bit more about. I am not in an immediate rush, so if this is the plan, then I will budget and save for it. looking forward to seeing your build. I'm really enjoying the heck out of it as is and learning as I go.

[LuckyScott]

You can buy a crate 350 motor, brand new, for a lot less money. It will have plenty of power with a good exhaust system and good ignition system.
I mean really, how good of a miles per hour improvement does it take to make up a high dollar motor?

[HO455]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

LS like this...

As awesome as your Burban is I don't think I will be going for that large of a torque improvement. I wouldn't be able to keep rear tires on it.

[adzints7]

Is there ANY chance that this suffix code could be anything other than a 305?